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Restaurant-Style Pork Chops
Grilled Stove-Top
By Charlie Burke
Although unseasonably mild weather has permitted outside grilling, I
doubt that we can rely on spring-like temperatures continuing through
January and February. Apple growers here in central New Hampshire
were worried that sixty degree temperatures would cause their trees to
blossom which would spell disaster for this year’s crop, and, this being
the second consecutive warm winter, the ski and tourist industries in all
three northern New England states really need cold and snowy weather
for the next three months.
If the hoped for winter weather arrives, the charcoal grill will have to wait
until spring, but we can still enjoy the smoky flavor of foods grilled at
high temperature. One of my favorite pans is also the least expensive in
our kitchen. It is a cast iron ridged grill pan which, when preheated over
a high flame, chars meat, fish and vegetables much like our outdoor grill.
I sometimes put herbs into the grooves beneath the meat or fish, and the
herb scented smoke adds subtle flavor. Rosemary works well with lamb
or swordfish, and I like sage with pork and chicken. I also like to grind
coarse salt, peppercorns or other spices or herbs to coat whatever I am
grilling.
Lodge is the leading manufacturer of cast iron pans, and one like mine
costs less than thirty dollars and will last a lifetime. After purchase, the
pan is washed with soapy water and a brush. It should be dried, coated
on all surfaces with vegetable oil and placed upside down in a 350
degree oven for at least an hour and left in the closed oven until cool.
After that, soap is never used; the pan is washed with hot water and a
brush and then dried and wiped with a light coating of oil. Properly
seasoned iron pans have been passed down for generations.
For grilling at such high temperatures, meat and fish should be at least
one and one-half inches thick, and two inch thickness is preferable.
Chicken breasts should be cooked bone in because boned breasts will
become dry. Pork, swordfish and chicken benefit from brining briefly (30
minutes in a solution containing 2 tablespoons kosher or sea salt for each
quart of water). Pork, however, is frequently processed with similar fluid;
if the label states it has been processed then do not brine.
For two servings:
1 large 2” thick pork chop, with bone, weighing 12-16 ounces or 2 smaller
chops
2 teaspoons coarse kosher or sea salt
2 teaspoons whole pepper corns
2 teaspoons whole coriander seeds
Vegetable oil, such as peanut or canola.
1 tablespoon fresh sage leaves, coarsely chopped (optional)
Bring pork chops to room temperature (in brine if using).
Place salt, pepper corns and coriander seeds in a spice grinder or use a
mortar and pestle. Grind into a coarse powder. Dry the pork chop and
lightly oil on both sides. Evenly distribute the salt mixture on both sides
and set aside.
Place the grill pan over high heat for 3 – 4 minutes and turn hood fan to
high. Sprinkle sage leaves into pan in an area slightly smaller than the
chop and immediately place the chop over the herbs. Cook, undisturbed
for 3 – 4 minutes, then move chop 45 degrees to make a diamond grill
pattern. At 6 minutes, turn chop and cook for 3 minutes, turn 45 degrees
and cook until temperature is 150 degrees or the meat is pink in the
center. Check temperature next to the bone, and if it is less than 150
degrees, stand chop on the bone in the pan over high heat for 2 minutes.
Remove from pan and let sit for 5 minutes before slicing or serving. I like
to serve these chops with assertive sides, such as sautéed mushrooms,
dark greens and pan fried potatoes. A full bodied red wine matches the
charred, smoky flavor of the pork.
This technique of high temperature grilling approaches those used in
restaurants, where even higher temperatures are used to get that “steak
house” charring, and is adaptable to any meat, fish or poultry normally
sautéed or grilled outside. Vegetables, such as asparagus, zucchini,
mushrooms and onions also can be cooked this way, and I frequently
char radicchio to be cut up and added to green salads as a smoky bitter
accent.
About the author:
An organic farmer and avid cook, writer Charlie Burke is the vice
president of the New Hampshire Farmer'sMarket Association, president
of the NH Farm to Restaurant Connection and helps run the Sanbornton
(NH) Farmers' Market. Along with his wife, Joanne, Charlie grows
certified organic herbs, greens and berries at Weather Hill Farm in
Sanbornton, NH.
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