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Fresh Asparagus Soup
printer friendly version
By Charlie Burke
printer friendly version
By Charlie Burke
This unseasonably warm spring surprised us with the sudden emergence of
asparagus this week. The unexpected first spear was beheaded by a hose dragged
across the oldest of our three beds but was soon followed by several more, and
we look forward to several weeks of this special spring crop. I avoid buying out
of season asparagus - who knows where it comes from or what chemicals have
been applied? The flavor of fresh, locally grown spears is vastly superior and
signals the true arrival of spring.
Choose large spears with tightly closed buds. The very thin spears which gained
popularity years ago when “nouvelle cuisine” featured all kinds of baby
vegetables are actually inferior to thicker stalks and are produced by less mature
or healthy plants. Healthy plants produce stalks at an amazing rate, and these are
very tender with proportionally less fibrous skin than the thinner spears. If you
must store asparagus, refrigerate the spears upright in a glass in an inch or so of
water covered with a moist towel, but they are best eaten the day they are picked.
We previously described the basic cooking of asparagus (see our archives), and
little needs to be done to enjoy its flavor. Remember not to overcook asparagus;
flavor it with butter or olive oil, adding lemon juice or a light sprinkling of
Parmesan cheese for variety. When we’ve had our fill of fresh asparagus cooked
this way, I’ll make soup which can be served either hot or cold. Many recipes call
for chicken stock and include other ingredients such as potato, egg yolks or rice,
but I prefer to use minimal additions, permitting the fresh “green” flavor to shine.
Using the water in which the asparagus is boiled captures all of this flavor. I
usually serve this simple pureed soup as is, but adding a tablespoon of sautéed
pancetta and asparagus adds a new dimension.
Four servings:
2 pounds asparagus, washed, with 1 – 2 inches of base removed. (peeling the
lower third of the stalks permits use of all except the very base)
6 cups water
2 tablespoons butter or olive oil
½ cup chopped shallot, leek or sweet onion
1 ½ tablespoon flour
½ cup cream, light or heavy (optional)
Kosher or sea salt and fresh ground pepper
Optional addition to hot soup:
4 stalks asparagus, washed and cut into ½ inch pieces
1 tablespoon chopped pancetta or bacon
1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon olive oil
Bring 6 cups water to a boil in a medium sauce pan and add 1 tablespoon salt.
Roughly chop asparagus and put into boiling water. Boil for 8 - 10 minutes (for
soup, asparagus is cooked longer than for table presentations).
While asparagus is cooking, heat a medium sauté pan over medium heat and
sauté shallots until soft but not browned. Sprinkle flour over shallots and cook,
stirring for 2-3 minutes to remove the raw flour taste. Set aside.
When asparagus is softened, remove with a slotted spoon and place in a blender
or food processor, along with 1 ½ cup of the cooking water and the shallot
mixture. Process or blend until very smooth – if using a blender, hold a towel
over the top and start at slow speed to avoid splashing the hot liquid. When
thoroughly blended, return to the liquid in the sauce pan (strain if you want a
very smooth soup – I do not bother). Whisk to combine and add cream, if using.
Correct seasoning and serve. If serving later, cool, cover and refrigerate; do not
add cream until soup is reheated. To serve cold, add cream immediately before
serving and check seasoning because cold soup may require more salt.
If you wish to add the asparagus pieces and pancetta, heat oil and pancetta in a
small sauté pan over medium heat and cook until pancetta is lightly browned.
Add asparagus pieces and cook for a minute or two until asparagus is bright
green. Sprinkle with cheese off heat and add a tablespoon of the mixture to each
bowl.
This preparation is quite easy, and preserves the intense flavor of fresh local
asparagus, which should be available at farm stands and farmers’ markets over
the weeks ahead. Buy this great local taste of spring and see how it outshines
those “foreign” crops!
About the author:
An organic farmer and avid cook, writer Charlie Burke is the vice president of the
New Hampshire Farmer'sMarket Association, president of the NH Farm to
Restaurant Connection and helps run the Sanbornton (NH) Farmers' Market.
Along with his wife, Joanne, Charlie grows certified organic herbs, greens and
berries at Weather Hill Farm in Sanbornton, NH.
asparagus this week. The unexpected first spear was beheaded by a hose dragged
across the oldest of our three beds but was soon followed by several more, and
we look forward to several weeks of this special spring crop. I avoid buying out
of season asparagus - who knows where it comes from or what chemicals have
been applied? The flavor of fresh, locally grown spears is vastly superior and
signals the true arrival of spring.
Choose large spears with tightly closed buds. The very thin spears which gained
popularity years ago when “nouvelle cuisine” featured all kinds of baby
vegetables are actually inferior to thicker stalks and are produced by less mature
or healthy plants. Healthy plants produce stalks at an amazing rate, and these are
very tender with proportionally less fibrous skin than the thinner spears. If you
must store asparagus, refrigerate the spears upright in a glass in an inch or so of
water covered with a moist towel, but they are best eaten the day they are picked.
We previously described the basic cooking of asparagus (see our archives), and
little needs to be done to enjoy its flavor. Remember not to overcook asparagus;
flavor it with butter or olive oil, adding lemon juice or a light sprinkling of
Parmesan cheese for variety. When we’ve had our fill of fresh asparagus cooked
this way, I’ll make soup which can be served either hot or cold. Many recipes call
for chicken stock and include other ingredients such as potato, egg yolks or rice,
but I prefer to use minimal additions, permitting the fresh “green” flavor to shine.
Using the water in which the asparagus is boiled captures all of this flavor. I
usually serve this simple pureed soup as is, but adding a tablespoon of sautéed
pancetta and asparagus adds a new dimension.
Four servings:
2 pounds asparagus, washed, with 1 – 2 inches of base removed. (peeling the
lower third of the stalks permits use of all except the very base)
6 cups water
2 tablespoons butter or olive oil
½ cup chopped shallot, leek or sweet onion
1 ½ tablespoon flour
½ cup cream, light or heavy (optional)
Kosher or sea salt and fresh ground pepper
Optional addition to hot soup:
4 stalks asparagus, washed and cut into ½ inch pieces
1 tablespoon chopped pancetta or bacon
1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon olive oil
Bring 6 cups water to a boil in a medium sauce pan and add 1 tablespoon salt.
Roughly chop asparagus and put into boiling water. Boil for 8 - 10 minutes (for
soup, asparagus is cooked longer than for table presentations).
While asparagus is cooking, heat a medium sauté pan over medium heat and
sauté shallots until soft but not browned. Sprinkle flour over shallots and cook,
stirring for 2-3 minutes to remove the raw flour taste. Set aside.
When asparagus is softened, remove with a slotted spoon and place in a blender
or food processor, along with 1 ½ cup of the cooking water and the shallot
mixture. Process or blend until very smooth – if using a blender, hold a towel
over the top and start at slow speed to avoid splashing the hot liquid. When
thoroughly blended, return to the liquid in the sauce pan (strain if you want a
very smooth soup – I do not bother). Whisk to combine and add cream, if using.
Correct seasoning and serve. If serving later, cool, cover and refrigerate; do not
add cream until soup is reheated. To serve cold, add cream immediately before
serving and check seasoning because cold soup may require more salt.
If you wish to add the asparagus pieces and pancetta, heat oil and pancetta in a
small sauté pan over medium heat and cook until pancetta is lightly browned.
Add asparagus pieces and cook for a minute or two until asparagus is bright
green. Sprinkle with cheese off heat and add a tablespoon of the mixture to each
bowl.
This preparation is quite easy, and preserves the intense flavor of fresh local
asparagus, which should be available at farm stands and farmers’ markets over
the weeks ahead. Buy this great local taste of spring and see how it outshines
those “foreign” crops!
About the author:
An organic farmer and avid cook, writer Charlie Burke is the vice president of the
New Hampshire Farmer'sMarket Association, president of the NH Farm to
Restaurant Connection and helps run the Sanbornton (NH) Farmers' Market.
Along with his wife, Joanne, Charlie grows certified organic herbs, greens and
berries at Weather Hill Farm in Sanbornton, NH.
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